If your dryer starts making noises, and the noises start getting louder the more you use your dryer, until the dryer sounds like a train, you need to check the drum support rollers. Most people use the dryer when it’s making noises, hoping that the noises go away, but the noises won’t go away…instead they will get worse. Trust me on this… I get my info from a very reliable source who has seen this more than a few times – (heck, more than a few hundred times, as a professional Austin appliance repair tech for Appliance Masters – http://austinappliancemasters.com).
To check the drum rollers, open the dryer door, and look at the back of the tumbler, and the back wall. If there is a gap between the rear of the tumbler, and the back wall, instead of being like this, you need to check the drum support rollers.
Let me show you how to replace the drum support rollers on your dryer.
The first thing you need to do is to disconnect your electric or gas dryer from the wall outlet. Remove the two top panel holding screws under the lent filter cover. Take a spatula, and place it between the top and front panels, and pry up to disengage the holding clips. Do the same on the other side. Lift the top panel, and lean it against the wall. Use a piece of coat hanger wire shaped like this, to hold the tumbler in place – you will need to measure to see how long it needs to be.
Remove one of the tumbler baffle holding screws. Insert one end of the coat hanger wire in the baffle hole…and the other end in a hole in the cabinet. This wire will hold the tumbler in place. Use a small, flat screwdriver to disconnect the door switch like this.
To remove the front panel, you will need to remove these two screws. Go ahead and remove to two front panel holding screws. Lift the corners of the front panel, to disengage the holding clips on the bottom, and take the panel right out.
To disengage the belt from the motor pulley, push on the idle pulley with your left hand, and with your right hand take it right out.
Remove the coat hanger wire that is holding the drum…and grab the drum on the belt and take it right out.
Bad drum support rollers like this one are the cause why the dryer’s making so much noise. To remove the bad roller, use the needle nose plyers to remove the plastic, triangular ring. Then remove the bad roller. If the triangular ring on the back is good, use it…if not, use a new one.
Clean the roller shaft…and use lithium grease to grease the shaft. Install the new roller, and install the triangular plastic ring.
To remove this roller, you will need to remove the screw on the bracket…then remove the bracket…remove the triangular ring if you have one…if you don’t, just remove the roller. If the triangular ring on the back is good, use it…if not, replace it. Clean the roller shaft, and use the lithium grease to grease the shaft. Install the new roller, and install the new triangular plastic ring that comes with the rollers. Install the bracket…the bracket holding screw…and the compression ring that holds the bracket in place.
Grab the drum with the belt on it…and set it in place. Make sure that the rollers are on the groove on the tumbler. Turn the tumbler around a couple of times, to make sure that the rollers are riding on the groove. Make sure that the baffle that you removed the screw from is on the top. Install the piece of coat hanger wire to hold the tumbler in place. Make sure that the belt is in place with the ridges, facing the tumbler. This is the way that the belt should look on the tumbler, when installed right. And, this is the way that the belt should look on the tumbler, when installed wrong – so make sure you’ve got it the right way.
Set the idle pulley in place and hold it with your right hand. Grab the belt with your left hand…place it on top of the idle pulley wheel, and thread it through the pulley like this. Grab the belt with your right hand…with your left hand push the idle pulley, and with your right hand place the belt on the motor pulley…like this.
When installing the front panel you need to make sure that you hook the bottom of the front panel on these holding clips first. Set the front panel in front of the dryer. Hook the front panel on the bottom holding clips. Make sure that the tumbler is riding on the front (unclear) bearing…and then, screw in the holding screws.
Connect the door switch wire harness…make sure you have a good connection. Remove the coat hanger wire that is holding the tumbler in place…lower the top panel…and push on it to make sure that the holding clips grab the top panel and hold it in place.
Install the two top panel holding screws under the lent filter cover.
That was the way to replace the drum support rollers, the belt, and the idle pulley.
Not all ranges look the same, but all of them feature a stove top and over, which operate on similar principals. In this video we will address how a gas range operates as well as potential problems you may encounter. Each surface burner knob on the stove top controls a burner valve. When the know is turned to the light position, the valve opens, allowing gas to flow from the manifold.
As the gas travels through the burner tube, it is directed into the venturi (Venturi effect on wikipedia), where it combines with air to create the proper mixture necessary for combustion. At the same time, the spark switch closes, allowing 120 Volts of alternating current to travel to the spark module which produces high voltage pulses to all of the electrodes. The pulses cause a spark to occur between the electrode and the grounded burner cap.
The gas and air mixture at the burner head is ignited by the spark and a blue flame with an occasional yellow tip is produced. Common problems that occur with this type of electronic ignition system are the electrodes sparking continuously, sparking intermittently or not sparking at all. If the electrodes spark continuously, one or more of the switches has probably shorted closed. A short is usually caused by liquid getting into the switch.
“If this happens, you should unplug the appliance and the give the switches time to dry out,” is what I was told by Mike at Appliance Masters in Tucson (http://appliancerepairtucsonaz.org). If the electrodes are still sparking continuously, once the appliance is plugged back in, one or more of the switches has probably failed and will need to be replaced. If the electrodes spark intermittently, there is a high probability that the module is defective and will need to be replaced.
If one or more of the electrodes fails to spark at all, the cause could be a defective switch that prevents the voltage from reaching the module. The module could also be defective in fail to produce the high voltage pulses to one or more of the electrodes. Finally, the electrodes themselves could be damaged. To help determine this, you can inspect the electrodes for cracks.
A gas oven ignition system consists of three basic components: the oven control, the igniter, and the oven safety valve. The oven control may be switched based with a thermostat and a sensing bulb assembly or an electronic control board that works with an oven sensor. When you select the bake or broil function, the control sends 120 Volts of alternating current to the appropriate igniter.
The igniter is wired to the safety valve and as the igniter starts to get hot, it draws an increased current or amps to the valve. Inside the valve is a bi-metal arm that reacts to the heat generated by the amps. Once sufficient amps passed through the valve, the arm flexes and opens, releasing gas into the oven burner tube. The gas travels through the burner tube until it reaches the bake or broil igniter.
By this time, the igniter temperature is over 2.000 degrees Fahrenheit, so the gas is easily ignited and the appropriate burner will begin to heat. The igniter remains on to keep the safety valve open until the over reaches the designated cooking temperature. The temperature is monitored by the sensing bulb on the thermostat or by the oven sensor. When the selected temperature is reached, the oven control shuts off the voltage to the igniter. The arm inside the safety valve closes, shutting off the gas supply to the burner.
This cycle repeats throughout the cooking process to maintain the proper temperature. Keep in mind, the cooking temperature designated by the control is only an average. The actual temperature will fluctuate throughout the cycle. Convection ovens will reduce this fluctuation by using a motorized fan with or without its own heating element to circulate the heated air evenly throughout the oven cavity.
If any of the ignition system components fail, the oven will either not heat at all or heat improperly. The component that most commonly fails is the igniter. If your over is bake or broil burner is not working, remove any covers or shields and observe whether or not the burners igniter is glowing. If the igniter is glowing, but the burner has not been lit after ninety seconds, there is a high probability that the igniter has weakened and it’s unable to draw the proper amps to open the safety valve and light the burner.
In this case, the igniter should be replaced. If the igniter is not glowing, you should test both the igniter and the safety valve to determine if one of them has stopped functioning. If one or both of the burners are still not working, the oven is overheating or the temperature is off by more than forty degrees Fahrenheit, once preheated, the oven control is probably defective. If your oven has a switch base control with a thermostat and sensing bulb, the entire assembly will need to be replaced. If your oven has an electronic control, the oven sensor can be tested to determine whether the sensor or the control board is the source of the problem.