Today I am going to show you in this video how to install one this GFCI receptacles. So the GFCI stands for Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter and most commonly you’re going to see this type of receptacle when you have a plugin within most places that cord is one meter, three feet from water, like a sink or some kind of water source.
Also a lot of times in a garage, most places are calling for this by code as well and on the exterior of your home. So these are just to protect you from getting electrocuted, if you happen to come in contact with water and electricity from this receptacle at the same time. So that’s what the Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter stands for.
On these receptacles, they all are going to have a test, they’re going to have two buttons, one is a test button, which you should test probably every month, which just is making sure that the breaker that’s inside here actually works and then there is a reset button beside it that you push. They generally, most of them have a indicator light. On this one is right here, near the end of my finger.
Sometimes, depending on the receptacle, that light either can be on if everything is good and it’s functioning properly or some of them it’ll even come on only when it’s not functioning, if it needs to be reset. With this particular one, I don’t know off hand exactly which way this one is, until I actually power it up. Also you will notice in this particular one, this is for a twenty amp line, twenty amp wire, so that’s why it’s got these different slots, kind of a T shape slot on the one side.
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We’re doing a kitchen counter circuit and it needs to be a twenty amps circuit, so this is a twenty amp GFCI. I don’t think there’s anything else, this one is a TR style, which means it has the little shutters inside the slot, which is coded in most places now as well. It just prevents kids from being able to jam something in there, get shocked.
Something else I should mention. If you look on the back side here, when you take it out of the box, there usually will be this some type of yellow tape or sticker across two of the screws, those screws are only if you are feeding more receptacles down the line, after this receptacle, that’s the only time you use these top ones. Those are, I believe they call them the load terminals. When the power is, in our situation, is feeding straight to this box, this is the first plugin, we’re going to be using the bottom screws, which are not covered up.
They are the line screws. We’ll just go to the electrical metal box to start with. I’ve used for this, I used a box that’s got a little bit of extra room on the sides, it’s bulged out a little bit, just because these receptacles are pretty big and sometimes you need a little extra room for the wiring in there. You might not be able to find those all the time, at your local retailer, but if you can, it does work nice for these GFCIs.
So I am going to set that down, I want to start by attaching the ground, that’s the first thing I do all the time, I want to attach the ground not only to this box, to the metal box, but it also needs to be attached to the receptacle itself. So first we’re going to attach it to the box and to do that you’re going to find in the back of the box usually, they generally are always in the back, there’s going to be two ground screws.
I want to take that ground wire that’s coming into the box and, sorry, I am kind of getting in the way here, and I am going to wrap it around that screw and then tighten that screw up. So I’ve got that all tighten up and good to go. You generally want at least about three inches of the wire protruding from the box, I’ve just barely got enough here, to easily work with so it could have been just a hair longer. I initially thought that this ground is going to be a little short, but I am pretty sure I can make it work.
Today I am going to show you what’s involved in hooking up a kitchen sink drain. So, we are going to be using AVS fittings and you can see a bit of an assortment here of the different ones that you may need. Most importantly we are going to need a P-trap.
Ok so this particular item, what it does is it creates a water trap down here so your sewer gases cannot come back through the wall and back out through your sink into your house so very important to be on all your sink drains and that sort of thing, tub drains.
Ok so we have got the P-trap, in this particular case, we are going to also have a dishwasher in this kitchen so we need a fitting where the dishwasher drain line can drain into the drain and an important thing about this is it needs to be in front of or ahead of the P-trap. So this would be the end where the sink drain is in and then it drains down through here and out into the sewers so it’s important that it’s on this end. If you put it on this end ahead… before the P-trap has a chance to stop the gases, you can get sewer gas coming into the house through the dishwasher so it has to be on this end, on the sink end of the P-trap.
So that’s those two pieces now on top of that… actually why don’t I just show you. We have got the particular one just taken off of the sink that we are going to show you this on so I have got the P-trap right here and the only thing that’s missing is this little elbow cause it’s glued on. So we have got the P-trap, we have a little pipe here, this is an inch and a half AVS pipe then here we have got that dish water fitting…. Dish washer fitting, we have got another stub of AVS in there then we have got this fitting up top so that looks like this and what that is is the drain stub on the bottom of your sink, it fits down there and that makes that connection.
So your drain on your sink could be copper, could be plastic, doesn’t really matter as long as this fits this fitting, this fitting basically, how it works is this… if this is your sink stub, threaded on part goes on then you have got a washer fitting like this that’s tapered, you want the taper down, it would slide up on that pipe and then what happens is when you lower this down onto that tapered fitting and thread it onto here, it just tightens everything together and makes a seal around here, that wedge just fits right inside this tapered edge of the pipe as well.
So that’s how that works. So that’s another item that you might need. This is just an inch and a half coupler so depending on your situation, you could need one or two of those, you might need a ninety degree elbow. It’s just going to depend on where your drain line is coming in to the cabinetry and where the actual drain sink is. So you are going to need a variety of few different pieces as well as one or two feet of inch and a half pipe to cut into lengths. The AVS pipe that we used in here for stubs, that is simple… you can just cut it with a hacksaw, you can cut it on your electric wire box, that sort of thing.
So it cuts pretty easily. Just try to make as square and straight cuts as you can. All these pieces are glued together with some AVS solvent cement, it’s usually yellow, I think there is a while clear color out there so it’s just some glue. Now we do have another video on working with AVS pipes so to see the actual cutting and gluing and fitting everything together, just reference back to that video. This one here is just solely about the parts you are going to need for the sink drain.
Ok so we have got the parts, we have actually… this has all been made up and ready to fit onto the sink so we are going to change the angle of the camera so that you see underneath that when I actually install this underneath then you can see what it actually looks like.
Ok so we have moved down below where you can see the kitchen below the kitchen sink here, we have taken the doors off the cabinet for clarity. So you can see here, our piece of drain is going to thread on to there and this is the tail piece, in this case, it’s plastic and this will slip on over there. So what we did is we took off these two pieces off the top here and I will just insert them onto the tail piece so there is our black threaded piece, here is our wedge shaped gasket right there. So when you are doing this you will dry fit all your pieces as you go to make sure it works.
We have already done that and glued everything up so I know it’s going to fit on there so we just need to slide everything up until everything makes good contact. This nut comes around, threads on to the elbow of the P-trap, just tighten that up, this one like I said before, this little wedge gasket slides down in there through this nut, tighten it up. It’s not usually necessary that you need to use a wrench, get it nice and snug with your hands. So you can see now, this is the drain in the sink, water is going to flow down here through the P-trap, up again slightly, back here into the horizontal pipe and down into the drain, this pipe up here is the vent system that vents out to the roof to get air behind water.
As I mentioned before, some water will always stay trapped in the P-trap and it prevents any sewer gas from coming up, once it gets to this point, it can get through the water, if this just came straight across in a ninety degree elbow and up, there is no water to prevent that gas from getting up through the sink drain into your home so really important that you have the P-trap. Your setup can be slightly different, your drain might be coming out of the wall or maybe from another cabinet or something so it’s all going to depend on what your actual setup is as far as what you need for parts and pieces. I recommend you buy a few extra little things, maybe a couple of forty fives, that sort of thing. You can always return them if you don’t use them, it always seems like, when it comes to plumbing, generally, you need to do a little bit more messing around than you thought you were originally going to have to.