Fixing a Leaking Washer With Las Vegas Appliance Masters
Today we’re looking at a Whirlpool top load washer; the customer complaint was water leaking onto the floor from the washer. Upon moving the washer out and inspecting, find out where the water was coming from, we found the siphon break on the drain hose was leaking when the washer would drain. To us, this is a job for the pros at Appliance Repair Las Vegas (http://lasvegasappliancemasters.com), who were kind enough to help us through this repair job.
There’s a gasket inside here so when the water drains, it’s supposed to seal the gap here from the drain hose and then when the water’s gone the plunger seal goes back down, allows air to come into the drain hose, that gives that the siphon break. So, the gaskets just worn and water is leaking out at the top here when it drains so we’re going to be installing new siphon break.
The tools needed for this repair are five sixteenths nut driver or your drill with the five sixteenths chuck and a pair of multi-purpose cutters.
Before beginning any repair, always be sure to disconnect the power to the appliance.
It is also recommended to test the outlet for proper voltage. Remember to also turn off the water.
So we’ll just have to remove our two hose clamp holding siphon break on. This is a five sixteenths nut driver. And now we can just pull our drain hose of the siphon break. We’ll just going to remove the drain hose sleeves from the drain hose.
From where the original siphon break was installed and the hose clamp was installed, you can see the part of the hose that is damaged, so we’re going to go ahead and cut that back and remove the damaged section.
Just use a pair of multi-purpose cutters. The next step is to install the new drain hose sleeves. We’re going to go ahead and place one of our drain hose clams onto the drain hose and now the siphon break.
Now the siphon break is installed into the drain hoses we can install the new hose clamps that were provided in the kit. We’ll just going to tighten the five sixteenths with the nut driver.
And the next they we’re going to do is secure our drain hose assembly to the back of the washer can with the zip tie, this is also provided in the kit. At this point your repairs complete the only thing left to do is to run the washer to recycle and check your connections for water leaks.
If you’re getting a very low reading and you have verified all the things that I listed before, the pressure switch, the temperature switch, and the timer cycle setting, than you might need to check out the “Under the Console” chapter. If the valve seems to be receiving power, but it is not opening fully, it is likely bad internally and needs to be replaced. Check the valve screens for debris. If they are mostly clean than the plunger to the valve is probably bound up and not opening fully and needs to be replaced.
To replace the valve, unplug the washer, remove all wire plugs, remove any mounting screws, raise the valve up out of its cradle, and then remove the tub supply (?). Some new valves come with a plate that can be installed on the valve and make it compatible with many models of washers produced over the years. Reinstall the new valve with your trusty nut driver. Reinstall any screws that you may need. Reinstall your power supply wires. Wire terminals are usually color coded and fool proof. Red would be for hot and white would be for cold. Reattach the tub supply line and all of your hoses. You might want to check to see if the washer will fill properly before you reinstall the cabinet.
A Few Thing to Remember:
• The water valve should open when supplies with 120 volts
• The valve should open and close completely
• The valve is supplied power from the timer through the temperature switch and pressure switch