Things To Consider Before Getting a New Roof in Tucson

Today we are going to look at what is important to you as you buy a new roof, including special circumstances that maybe make your roof a little bit different than other roofs and could affect your decision on what type of roofing you buy. Those things are very important to think about at the time that you determine what sort of roofing material you are going to have installed on your roof. You want to go back to make sure that you choose a product that meets your criteria you established. Trust me, after more than 30 years of working with Tucson roofing contractors, I know what I’m talking about.

You also want to make sure you buy a product that can accommodate and can work well with those special circumstances we talked about in part two of this video series. Why choose your roofing material before you choose a contractor? I am a strong believer that you want to choose your roofing material first, before you choose a contractor. Let me tell you a couple of reasons.

One – and I talked about this once before- the roofing industry is built a lot on recurring income, the roofing industry likes to get you buy the product and they will sell you another product in 15, 16, 17, 18 years. There is huge infrastructure out there of roofing manufactures and roofing contractors and they need that recurring income to support the industry.

So, if you rather than choose your product first, if you just go to a contractor and say, “Hey, what kind of product should I use?” they probably, in a lot of cases, they are going to steer you toward a product that they know is going to bring them recurring income to have to replace that product down the road. They are not necessary doing this to deceive you, they are just doing it because that’s the way the industry works.

So, I don’t want to necessary say that your contractor is trying to do something really deceptive, but it is the way the industry works, so they probably are going to push you toward another short-term product. The other thing that happens a lot of times – if you go to your roofing contractor and say, ” Hey, what product do you think I should use?”

And you do want their input, I’m not saying you don’t want their input, but a lot of times they buy those products from distributors and whole sellers and a lot of times those distributors and whole sellers may have a particular shingle on sale or they also may have a special program going, where if the contractor buys a certain number of squares of that product during the course of a year or that manufacture’s product during the course of a year, maybe they get sent on a trip or a cruise or something like that.

So, those type of things, what is on sale, what maybe builds them up some rewards points, those type of things can determine what product they suggest you put in your house. I don’t know about you, but I don’t know if that’s the way that I want to be determined what sort of roofing material is going to be used on my home. We talked about your criteria a little bit. One of your criteria might likely be, ” I want a product that is going to be durable and it’s going to last”.

I want to tell you that this is really important in my book and here is the reason: I’ve been in this industry over 30 years and one of the things that I’ve seen is that the cost to re-roof your home, both materials and labor, doubles about every 10 years. That is significant. So, if you buy a product today that only lasts 10 years, it’s going to cost twice as much to replace it in 10 years.

If you buy a product that lasts 20 years, it’s going to cost you if I am doing the math right, it’s going to cost you four times as much to replace it in 20 years. It’s very expensive to re-roof, it’s getting more expensive all the time. One of your criteria might be to choose a product that is going to get done with once and for all, get it out of your hair for your lifetime, perhaps even for the life of your home, rather than have to go through this rapidly expanding price and cycle of re-roofing every few years.

Fixing a Leaking Washer With Las Vegas Appliance Masters

Today we’re looking at a Whirlpool top load washer; the customer complaint was water leaking onto the floor from the washer. Upon moving the washer out and inspecting, find out where the water was coming from, we found the siphon break on the drain hose was leaking when the washer would drain. To us, this is a job for the pros at Appliance Repair Las Vegas (, who were kind enough to help us through this repair job.

There’s a gasket inside here so when the water drains, it’s supposed to seal the gap here from the drain hose and then when the water’s gone the plunger seal goes back down, allows air to come into the drain hose, that gives that the siphon break. So, the gaskets just worn and water is leaking out at the top here when it drains so we’re going to be installing new siphon break.

The tools needed for this repair are five sixteenths nut driver or your drill with the five sixteenths chuck and a pair of multi-purpose cutters.


Before beginning any repair, always be sure to disconnect the power to the appliance.

It is also recommended to test the outlet for proper voltage. Remember to also turn off the water.

So we’ll just have to remove our two hose clamp holding siphon break on. This is a five sixteenths nut driver. And now we can just pull our drain hose of the siphon break. We’ll just going to remove the drain hose sleeves from the drain hose.

From where the original siphon break was installed and the hose clamp was installed, you can see the part of the hose that is damaged, so we’re going to go ahead and cut that back and remove the damaged section.

Just use a pair of multi-purpose cutters. The next step is to install the new drain hose sleeves. We’re going to go ahead and place one of our drain hose clams onto the drain hose and now the siphon break.

Now the siphon break is installed into the drain hoses we can install the new hose clamps that were provided in the kit. We’ll just going to tighten the five sixteenths with the nut driver.

And the next they we’re going to do is secure our drain hose assembly to the back of the washer can with the zip tie, this is also provided in the kit. At this point your repairs complete the only thing left to do is to run the washer to recycle and check your connections for water leaks.

If you’re getting a very low reading and you have verified all the things that I listed before, the pressure switch, the temperature switch, and the timer cycle setting, than you might need to check out the “Under the Console” chapter. If the valve seems to be receiving power, but it is not opening fully, it is likely bad internally and needs to be replaced. Check the valve screens for debris. If they are mostly clean than the plunger to the valve is probably bound up and not opening fully and needs to be replaced.

To replace the valve, unplug the washer, remove all wire plugs, remove any mounting screws, raise the valve up out of its cradle, and then remove the tub supply (?). Some new valves come with a plate that can be installed on the valve and make it compatible with many models of washers produced over the years. Reinstall the new valve with your trusty nut driver. Reinstall any screws that you may need. Reinstall your power supply wires. Wire terminals are usually color coded and fool proof. Red would be for hot and white would be for cold. Reattach the tub supply line and all of your hoses. You might want to check to see if the washer will fill properly before you reinstall the cabinet.

A Few Thing to Remember:
• The water valve should open when supplies with 120 volts
• The valve should open and close completely
• The valve is supplied power from the timer through the temperature switch and pressure switch

Appliance Repair Update – Drum Support Rollers For Dryer Repair

If your dryer starts making noises, and the noises start getting louder the more you use your dryer, until the dryer sounds like a train, you need to check the drum support rollers. Most people use the dryer when it’s making noises, hoping that the noises go away, but the noises won’t go away…instead they will get worse.  Trust me on this… I get my info from a very reliable source who has seen this more than a few times – (heck, more than a few hundred times, as a professional Austin appliance repair tech for Appliance Masters –

To check the drum rollers, open the dryer door, and look at the back of the tumbler, and the back wall. If there is a gap between the rear of the tumbler, and the back wall, instead of being like this, you need to check the drum support rollers.

Let me show you how to replace the drum support rollers on your dryer.

The first thing you need to do is to disconnect your electric or gas dryer from the wall outlet. Remove the two top panel holding screws under the lent filter cover. Take a spatula, and place it between the top and front panels, and pry up to disengage the holding clips. Do the same on the other side. Lift the top panel, and lean it against the wall. Use a piece of coat hanger wire shaped like this, to hold the tumbler in place – you will need to measure to see how long it needs to be.

Remove one of the tumbler baffle holding screws. Insert one end of the coat hanger wire in the baffle hole…and the other end in a hole in the cabinet. This wire will hold the tumbler in place. Use a small, flat screwdriver to disconnect the door switch like this.

To remove the front panel, you will need to remove these two screws. Go ahead and remove to two front panel holding screws. Lift the corners of the front panel, to disengage the holding clips on the bottom, and take the panel right out.

To disengage the belt from the motor pulley, push on the idle pulley with your left hand, and with your right hand take it right out.

Remove the coat hanger wire that is holding the drum…and grab the drum on the belt and take it right out.

Bad drum support rollers like this one are the cause why the dryer’s making so much noise. To remove the bad roller, use the needle nose plyers to remove the plastic, triangular ring. Then remove the bad roller. If the triangular ring on the back is good, use it…if not, use a new one.

Clean the roller shaft…and use lithium grease to grease the shaft. Install the new roller, and install the triangular plastic ring.

To remove this roller, you will need to remove the screw on the bracket…then remove the bracket…remove the triangular ring if you have one…if you don’t, just remove the roller. If the triangular ring on the back is good, use it…if not, replace it. Clean the roller shaft, and use the lithium grease to grease the shaft. Install the new roller, and install the new triangular plastic ring that comes with the rollers. Install the bracket…the bracket holding screw…and the compression ring that holds the bracket in place.

Grab the drum with the belt on it…and set it in place. Make sure that the rollers are on the groove on the tumbler. Turn the tumbler around a couple of times, to make sure that the rollers are riding on the groove. Make sure that the baffle that you removed the screw from is on the top. Install the piece of coat hanger wire to hold the tumbler in place. Make sure that the belt is in place with the ridges, facing the tumbler. This is the way that the belt should look on the tumbler, when installed right. And, this is the way that the belt should look on the tumbler, when installed wrong – so make sure you’ve got it the right way.

Set the idle pulley in place and hold it with your right hand. Grab the belt with your left hand…place it on top of the idle pulley wheel, and thread it through the pulley like this. Grab the belt with your right hand…with your left hand push the idle pulley, and with your right hand place the belt on the motor pulley…like this.

When installing the front panel you need to make sure that you hook the bottom of the front panel on these holding clips first. Set the front panel in front of the dryer. Hook the front panel on the bottom holding clips. Make sure that the tumbler is riding on the front (unclear) bearing…and then, screw in the holding screws.

Connect the door switch wire harness…make sure you have a good connection. Remove the coat hanger wire that is holding the tumbler in place…lower the top panel…and push on it to make sure that the holding clips grab the top panel and hold it in place.

Install the two top panel holding screws under the lent filter cover.

That was the way to replace the drum support rollers, the belt, and the idle pulley.

DIY Rain Gutter Installation

If you’re having issues with flooding in your home or even just water pooling up on the outside, against your house (which can lead to all kinds of problems from rot to other issues with the founation), you should really consider installing some good rain gutters on your home.  We did this recently with a number of managed rental properties we have (you can see them here on this site:, and I can tell you that now I’m kicking myself for not having done so sooner!  It was an easy job and after the most recent rainy season, I can most definitely tell you it was a very, very good investment of both time and money.

All the materials used in installing these gutters can be purchased at Home Depot or Lowes. They sell links of ten foot gutters and if you need longer you’re going to have to use a seam. You can see, there is a seam here. Professional installers have a machine that rolls out and forms exactly how much gutter link you need, so they can go forty- fifty feet easy all in one piece and not have any seems.

The one thing you have to consider when putting up your gutter is needs to drop towards the drain, about an inch every twenty feet. This gutter is just over twenty feet, but if you have a forty foot span you would need to two downspouts, so you have the high and the middle and both, left and rights sides will drop down an inch. I picked up all these materials at Home Depot, but here in Lowes you can see they have roughly the same stuff, it’s exactly the same shape.

You can also get it in vinyl, so if you want to do a plastic rain gutter system, the good thing about plastic is it is easier to cut and the ceiling you’re going to use is more like a PVC sealant, so you are not going to use the same sealant you do on the metal gutters. The first thing I am going to do is run the chalk like string all the way across the gutter and snap a perfectly level horizontal line. And this is going to be where the base of the gutter is.

Now that I have a good horizontal line, I am going to lower it one inch on the gutter side only and snap a second line. This will give me the right amount of drop so that the water flows to the downspout. To cut the gutters you can use a jigsaw with a blade, but I am just going to use my arm saw. It cuts it really nice. Next I am going to snap on the end cap and tap it on on with the hammer and then crimp it a little with some pliers, just give it a slight bit of a bent when you squeeze.

The use some gutter sealant, it’s going to be right in the same section that you buy all your other materials, you’re not going to have to go to the paint section of Home Depot or Lowes. This is what I used, it looks like silicone, but it’s not the same stuff and you can see this is the hardware that I am going to be using to attach it to the roof, just one piece of bend metal and a screw, clips and just like that, real simple.

First one I placed six inches from the end, this is one that Lowes sells, looks a little different, but it’s exactly the same. You could see it’s got a hook and it clips in underneath and just slips right on. Here I am placing a bracket, every two feet. You’ll find it’s a lot easier putting the screws in on the bench than up on a ladder, so get them started here and then bring it up. If you need a joining bracket, slip one one.

You can do this yourself if you’re holding the middle of the rain gutter and balancing it, but it’s a lot easier to start on one end and have someone else hold it. I am lining up the bottom of the rain gutter with chalk line that tapers downward and then just screw it right in. Before I screw each screw, I make sure that it’s still following the tape. Add as many segments as you need, slip them in, it seems like it’s a little easier to put this in if you angle it down first and then once the bottom part is in, you can push it up to get the top part together in the slot.

Once you do that, get some pliers and bend it and crimp the top of the joint. I use a lot of sealant on both sides. You want to feather it out, make sure you get a nice clean seal. To mark where the downspouts are going to go, I am placing my level against this edge of the wall and it’s long and straight enough to reach the gutter, so I don’t have to really measure anything. If you get a very straight beam, you can just place it right against the wall, put it up against your gutter and you are going to know where your downspout needs to go.

You are going to find this whole process to be pretty easy I think and if there is a difficult part, this would be it, cutting the hole for the downspout. Home Depot only sells this rectangular piece for the downspout. If you don’t have any way to cut it out, you can get a gutter piece here. The only downside to using one of this is you have two more seams, but other than that, it’s really clean, it might make your project go a lot faster and you don’t need to buy any extra tools.

So you might want to pick up one if this instead of cutting the downspout. They do make circular downspout drops, but I haven’t seen. Home Depot or Lowes didn’t have them and I didn’t have time on this project to order one. But if you do find one, you can use a drill saw like this and knock out a hole pretty easy. You can see it cuts a nice clean hole. You can also cut a hole with the jigsaw if that’s what you have.

Blades that are used for cutting metal, you can see here, they are kind of wavy and you’re going to need one of those. You can’t use a wood bit to cut metal, just doesn’t work. You can see, jigsaw will cut really easy. This last way is the way I would recommend. Start with drawing a rectangle, next drill a starting hole and using tin snips, cut a spiral out. If you cut thin spiral strips, you can get really close to the edge easily.

Next drill your rivet holes and put on some sealant and you can do a better job than I am doing this, this is just a demo, so it’s kind of sloppy, and stick it to the bottom of the gutter and put in your rivets. This is what it looks like, you don’t have to do a perfect job cutting the hole and it should hold up just fine. If you wondered about using tin snips to cut, they do cut the flat parts great, but when you get to the corner, it’s really hard to cut corners and keep the shape of the gutter.

So this are almost useless for doing gutters. It’s going to take way too long and bend your metal. I thought it would be good to try out a few ways to do it, so I tried this Rotozip  and it is squarely. These are great for cutting out drywall, but they are  tough to control when cutting a rain gutter. For this you are going to need a metal cutting bit as well and I am really working hard to control this blade.

It is the fastest way to do it, but I am not kidding when I say it is hard to control perfectly. Once you have your hole, you can put in your downspout drop, I am putting few holes in here for rivets. First a bit of sealant around the drop. This piece is actually made out of vinyl. It’s the only piece of vinyl in the whole job and if you don’t have rivets, you can use screws, but rivets work really well.

You can buy this riveting tool at Home Depot or Lowes, you get get a cheap one at Harbor Freight. This rivets are made our of aluminum, so they will never going to rust on you. After you put the rivets in, put on some more sealant all the way around the edge. Now I am slipping on the first part of the downspout. This one actually changes angles to match the side of the wall I am going to be mounting to.

I am going to put on one screw here, just to secure it from falling down. This is just as easy to cut, I am just using a circular saw again, not even a special blade. To mount into the masonry or hardboard, clapboard or even wood, you can use these plastic expanding anchors, you slip one of these in and when the screw gets placed inside, it expands the plastic and grips really tight. This is a metal strap that’s going to hold the downspout to the wall.

Now I am kinking the ends here so I can fit it inside the last piece. It’s a little difficult how it it folds in on itself. So for every piece, the piece above has to go inside the piece below it, otherwise water will flick right out of the connections. I am going to place another little screw here, just to stop this for slipping off. You can see the piece above it’s already pre kinked on this end and it slips right into the one below it.

Again, the one above goes inside the one below. You can bend this straps over and just just a couple of galvanized screws in, galvanized means they are not going to rust on you. For this downspout I only need two straps to hold it on. Here is where you have options. In this case, all I am doing is adding a section of drain pipe to keep the water from pulling right at the foundation.

Another way is to use this corrugated drain pipe, it gets buried underneath the ground and you can have a pop out, when the water comes down the gutter, it floods out here, keeps it all away from the house. My name is Adam, if you have any questions, let me know, I will do my best to answer, it’s a really easy process, I don’t think anybody would have trouble doing this, just give yourself a full Saturday and have some fun. Thanks, and good luck with your project!

Strategies For Doing Your Own Home Improvements

Tools You’ll Be Able To Trust: How To Tips For The Homeowner

Damaged, bent, or rusted metal railings are among the very offensive eyesores generally seen on older houses. For a modern look that does not upstage the classic exterior of your home, replace metal railing with textured wood supports. You can stain the wood a color that is darker or leave it natural contingent on your house’s outdoor color.

Clean up the outside of your house. All it takes to make your home look and feel is a little TLC on the outside. Trim the shrubs and pull the weeds of the flower bed. Add some cosmetic landscape lighting and ensure each of the outside light fixtures are in proper working order.

A great method to lessen your chance of mold growth in your household is by making sure your bathroom is well ventilated. Toilets which do not have some kind of vent or a window generally get steamy, but are not able to be rid of the humidity. This humidity leads to extensive mould development.

A staple tool to have is your drill if you’re going to do any home improvements. You require it to drive them in place and to begin screws. Ensure you have a drill that is cordless and battery used with a minimum of 9 volts. You should also have drill bits of numerous sizes and screw fasteners.

Smoke detectors are needed for security in your house. Many residences just put them in particular areas. It’s possible for you to increase the safety in your home, by installing additional sensors in areas like kitchens, toilets and cellars. These regions can sometimes be overlooked, though prone to fires as much or more compared to the remainder of the house.

If you’re selecting a major restoration, employ a professional designer or architect to help develop the plans. In case a part of your family or you don’t have professional training in this area, a professional designer will be able to produce a strategy that also matches all required building codes.

Consider converting fresh rooms within your house. Before you spend too much cash adding an additional room or two to your home , seriously look at what you need to work with. Are you getting much use out of that exercise office or room? Even storage spaces like attics could be transformed into something useful, like a bedroom.

Enhance your home by removing items you don’t want. You may have more space as well as your house will appear to be larger. De-litter by donating unneeded items for example clothes, furniture, etc., storing or throwing away Even packing your stuff away in boxes and putting those in the attic will remove things from your immediate living place.



Want to Do It Yourself? Here’s Some Tips For The Beginning Handyman

home repairs merit badgeA new replacement deck can be a great improvement to your home, but you have to be on the lookout for the common telltale signals that signify your deck is due for care. See the way the wood is holding up and that there aren’t any cracks. See if there is any sign of rot. Check to determine whether there are any nails.

Choose two easy-to-recall the batteries in your carbon monoxide and smoke detectors and replace, if needed, days of the year to check. New Year’s Day and the Fourth of July are perfect times to perform this job. You discuss your family’s exit strategy in case of a fire and should also make certain that your fire extinguishers work.

A dripping sink might be an annoyance in just about any home. It not only wastes water, but costs money on your own water bill. The faucets central cartridge might need to be replaced, if there is a sink dripping from the spout. When you have a column tap, you may want to change the washer. A quick examination will allow you to discover your course of action.

Glue your wallboard in position before nailing it! A caulking gun and the right adhesive makes fast work of the occupation. Faster installation’s advantages are clear. Another advantage is fewer nails. Furthermore, the adhesive holds the wall board tightly in place and the nails you do use are less likely to pop out later on.

Seriously reconsider adding a swimming pool to your backyard. A pool may be a pleasant addition to a home. What some people don’t see is that they are also rather pricey. There’s also the price of regular upkeep, not only are there the initial costs to think about. Make sure you have time and the cash needed, to keep your pool area from falling into disrepair, before you spend the cash on it. If you have doubts… sneak a peek at this web-site.

Trimming your hedges, trees and bushes may not be the very first thing which comes to mind when the appearance of your property can significantly improve. It can often be a quick day job for you to undertake, that’ll bring about a nice, finished look.

Store it in a glass jar instead of leaving it in the paint can, in case you have extra paint left over from a recent endeavor. You will have the ability to immediately tell what the color is without going through the messy ordeal of opening the lid of the paint can.



Cleaning Grout Tip – Powerful and Easy To Do

Today I’ve got one question for you and one huge cleaning tip. The question is this: “What is the best way to clean out grout?” It’s the Holy Grail of cleaning questions, right? Or at least it seems to be the case. One of my awesome fans, Ashley Self, submitted this great cleaning tip, and it has to do with this little invention she likes to call the Grout Grime Buster 3000.

And today, I am going to show you how to build this little fellow for less than $5.00. It’s going to make cleaning, not only your grout, but your kitchen and your bathroom and your laundry room, you name it, so much easier, quicker, and better. So let’s get started. In order to make the Grout Grime Buster 3000, you need a few things. You need some soap dispensing palm brush refills like this. I bough this at Target for a few bucks.

You need a like this one. This is five inches long. You need a hex nut, a flat washer and two split washers. It’s pretty simply what you need to do. You need to put one of the split lock washers on the bolt and slide it through like so. The next step is to place a flat washer on the bolt and the second split lock washer. Slide your hex nut on there, get it snug. Use a crescent wrench and then a socket wrench to ratchet it down.

And that’s all you need to do to make the Grout Grime Buster 3000. You can stick it into your drill like so. Lock it in place. And now you’ve got the perfect grout or tile cleaning solution. In a previous experiment, I determined that one quarter cup of Oxi Clean added to two cups of warm water is the perfect tile and grout cleaning solution. Pour this solution onto your grout and tile.

Let it sit for 5-10 minutes, then use the Grout Grime Buster 3000 to remove all the grime and dirt. Check this out. This is what Ashley’s grout and tiles looked like before and after. And this is what my tile and grout looked like before and after I used the cleaning solution and the Grout Grime Buster 3000. Pretty impressive, right? But this is not the only place that you can use this awesome little device. You can use it in your kitchen.

You can use it in your laundry room. You can use it in your shower. You can use it for the tile in your shower. You can use it on your toilet. You can use it in your sink and many other places. It’s unbelievable!  I’m here to tell you that this… I don’t know why nobody came up with this before for such a cheap price. So you should totally check this out. Build Grout Grime Buster 300. And if you have your own cleaning idea, let me know because maybe I’ll make a video out of it too.

What do you think? Wasn’t that one of the best ways to clean grout? I think it was. If you have your own suggestion, please leave it in the comment section below because other DIY-ers or home repair tutors like myself will be able to share it with many home owners. And I think that it would benefit so many people. So please, leave you suggestion in the comment section below.

Basics Of How Your Kitchen Range Works

kitchen oven repair 1Not all ranges look the same, but all of them feature a stove top and over, which operate on similar principals. In this video we will address how a gas range operates as well as potential problems you may encounter. Each surface burner knob on the stove top controls a burner valve. When the know is turned to the light position, the valve opens, allowing gas to flow from the manifold.

As the gas travels through the burner tube, it is directed into the venturi (Venturi effect on wikipedia), where it combines with air to create the proper mixture necessary for combustion. At the same time, the spark switch closes, allowing 120 Volts of alternating current to travel to the spark module which produces high voltage pulses to all of the electrodes. The pulses cause a spark to occur between the electrode and the grounded burner cap.

The gas and air mixture at the burner head is ignited by the spark and a blue flame with an occasional yellow tip is produced. Common problems that occur with this type of electronic ignition system are the electrodes sparking continuously, sparking intermittently or not sparking at all. If the electrodes spark continuously, one or more of the switches has probably shorted closed. A short is usually caused by liquid getting into the switch.

kitchen oven repair 2“If this happens, you should unplug the appliance and the give the switches time to dry out,” is what I was told by Mike at Appliance Masters in Tucson ( If the electrodes are still sparking continuously, once the appliance is plugged back in, one or more of the switches has probably failed and will need to be replaced. If the electrodes spark intermittently, there is a high probability that the module is defective and will need to be replaced.

If one or more of the electrodes fails to spark at all, the cause could be a defective switch that prevents the voltage from reaching the module. The module could also be defective in fail to produce the high voltage pulses to one or more of the electrodes. Finally, the electrodes themselves could be damaged. To help determine this, you can inspect the electrodes for cracks.

A gas oven ignition system consists of three basic components: the oven control, the igniter, and the oven safety valve. The oven control may be switched based with a thermostat and a sensing bulb assembly or an electronic control board that works with an oven sensor. When you select the bake or broil function, the control sends 120 Volts of alternating current to the appropriate igniter.

The igniter is wired to the safety valve and as the igniter starts to get hot, it draws an increased current or amps to the valve. Inside the valve is a bi-metal arm that reacts to the heat generated by the amps. Once sufficient amps passed through the valve, the arm flexes and opens, releasing gas into the oven burner tube. The gas travels through the burner tube until it reaches the bake or broil igniter.

By this time, the igniter temperature is over 2.000 degrees Fahrenheit, so the gas is easily ignited and the appropriate burner will begin to heat. The igniter remains on to keep the safety valve open until the over reaches the designated cooking temperature. The temperature is monitored by the sensing bulb on the thermostat or by the oven sensor. When the selected temperature is reached, the oven control shuts off the voltage to the igniter. The arm inside the safety valve closes, shutting off the gas supply to the burner.

kitchen oven repair 3This cycle repeats throughout the cooking process to maintain the proper temperature. Keep in mind, the cooking temperature designated by the control is only an average. The actual temperature will fluctuate throughout the cycle. Convection ovens will reduce this fluctuation by using a motorized fan with or without its own heating element to circulate the heated air evenly throughout the oven cavity.

If any of the ignition system components fail, the oven will either not heat at all or heat improperly. The component that most commonly fails is the igniter. If your over is bake or broil burner is not working, remove any covers or shields and observe whether or not the burners igniter is glowing. If the igniter is glowing, but the burner has not been lit after ninety seconds, there is a high probability that the igniter has weakened and it’s unable to draw the proper amps to open the safety valve and light the burner.

In this case, the igniter should be replaced. If the igniter is not glowing, you should test both the igniter and the safety valve to determine if one of them has stopped functioning. If one or both of the burners are still not working, the oven is overheating or the temperature is off by more than forty degrees Fahrenheit, once preheated, the oven control is probably defective. If your oven has a switch base control with a thermostat and sensing bulb, the entire assembly will need to be replaced. If your oven has an electronic control, the oven sensor can be tested to determine whether the sensor or the control board is the source of the problem.

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